When she was launched in 1934, the Queen Mary was the largest luxury liner in the world. On her maiden voyage she carried 2,000 passengers and 1,200 crew across the Atlantic in less than four days, a record that held for 40 years. During World War II she was stripped of her lavish décor and used as a British transport ship. Restored after the war, she resumed passenger service, but the era of ocean liner travel soon ended. In 1967 she was moved to Long Beach Harbor, where she is now a hotel, restaurant, and tourist attraction. Much of her old Art Deco magnificence has been preserved.

As you might expect, wheelchair access on a vintage ocean liner is quirky at best; large portions of the ship are simply unreachable, but she’s still well worth a visit.

The ship’s main entrance has several flights of stairs and no elevator. Wheelchair access is from the hotel at the opposite end of the ship. Follow the signs to the hotel/handicapped/valet area and park in any numbered blue space. From the hotel lobby, take the elevator to the Promenade level. As you exit the elevator to the ship’s deck, stop at the information counter for a guide map. It shows the locations of bathrooms and secondary elevators; although none are fully accessible, they may be usable by some.

Fortunately, the main exhibits are on the Promenade level, so there’s much to see even if the secondary elevators don’t work for you. Check out the railings in the Observation Bar at the bow of the ship, and the woodwork and lighting throughout. Remnants of the Queen Mary’s art collection (including the bronze grille doors that used to hang in the first-class dining room) are exhibited near the middle of the ship. Before you leave the Promenade level, stand near the prow and look down the deck toward the stern to get a sense of the ship’s grand scale.

Elevators to other decks are hidden in dark or cramped corners. Use the guide map to find them. The elevator to Deck D is very small and slow. If your chair is large, you won’t be able to turn around. When you get to Deck D, go through the unmarked door to the left. You’ll find yourself standing in an exhibition hall with a film about the Queen Mary, stories, pictures, maps of her routes, and a steep circular ramp that leads nowhere.

Deck E is spooky and interesting. The elevator deposits you underneath a stairway in a pitch-black room. Watch your head and remember where the door is for your return. We took two jogs to the right through the dark room and found ourselves in a chamber outside the ship looking down into the water at one of the enormous propellers. We continued toward the stern of the ship to the engine room. Parts of the room are too cramped to roll through, but you can see a lot from the entrance.

Restrooms

Restrooms in the Queen’s Village at the main entrance have no accessible stalls. Things aren’t much better on the ship. There’s a front transfer stall in the center of the Promenade level (dot #9 on the guide map), but the toilet is very low and the doors have twist knobs.